| #1
| LOOSEN THE SIX 1/4-20 SCREWS-(D), DO NOT REMOVE COMPLETELY.
|
| #2
| LIFT OFF THE UPPER SECTION-(E)
|
| #3
| TAKE THE LOWER SECTION-(A), AND MOUNT ON THE TANK RISER AND TIGHTEN. IF RISER IS NOT PLUMB,
THE DRAIN SHOULD BE ON THE LOW SIDE TO ALLOW ALL PRODUCT TO DRAIN-(F)
|
| #4
| LIFT THE UPPER SECTION-(E), AND SLIDE OVER THE LOWER SECTION-(A).
|
| #5
| DEPENDING ON YOUR AREA, MAKE SURE YOU ALLOW FOR THE FROST RISE-(G), WHEN SHOOTING YOUR GRADE.
THERE SHOULD BE A 1" CROWN OF CONCRETE AROUND THE LID TO PREVENT WATER ENTRY UPON OPENING THE LID.
|
| #6
| LAY A LEVEL ACROSS THE TOP AND PLUMB TO THE TOP.
|
| #7
| TAKE CARE WHEN TIGHTENING THE SIX 1/4-20 SCREWS-(D), ROTATE BY ALTERNATING BACK AND FORTH, TIGHTENING
A LITTLE BIT MORE EACH TIME, DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN 3 LBS. OF TORQUE.
|
| #8
| CRITICAL STEP: ADJUST THE DRAIN VALVE PUSH ROD SO THE TOP OF THE ROD IS 1/2" ABOVE
THE SNAP-TIGHT LID SEAT AS SHOWN. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT AS IT WILL VACUUM LOCK IN HOT, HUMID WEATHER
AND YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO OPEN THE LID WITH THE DRAIN VALVE SEALED.
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